The Mnweni region of the Northern Drakensberg is exceptionally scenic with deeply incised valleys, numerous streams and a very rugged escarpment wall with flying buttresses, castle-like peaks, pinnacles and detached vertical columns. A number of very steep and often overgrown mountain passes lead to the top of escarpment. Some of them are used by the cattle rustlers and dagga smugglers, while others are the domain of hardy mountaineers and adventurous hikers. Although this is a largely unspoilt tribal area, in recent years there has been some improvements to the local infrastructure, whereby several roads and bridges have been built linking Amazizi and Amangwane communities with the more developed parts of the KZN province.
Fig 1: Mnweni Valley with Drakensberg Escarment in the background
This hike took place over a long weekend from 27/04 – 1/05/2017 and it started at the Mnweni Cultural Centre.
Day1 – 27/04/2017
Having spent Wednesday night, 26-th of April in a guesthouse in Bergville, I arrived the following day at 8:00 in Mnweni Cultural Village. Here I met my group; four experienced and very fit hikers from Kroonstad, waiting anxiously to commence a long trek into the wilderness. We were also joined by a local community guide whom I had hired for his knowledge of the terrain and safety reasons.
Fig 2: My companions – Des Walker, Linda Daffue, Alexa Ogilvie and Jan Dykman
After signing the mountain register we departed at 8:50. Initially the route follows the picturesque Mnweni valley with a background of northern escarpment comprising Amphitheatre, Devil’s Tooth, Eastern Buttress in the north and Saddle, Mnweni Cutback and Rockeries in the south. On the way we passed numerous kraals with domestic animals and traditional rondavels where local people reside. Around midday we crossed Mnweni River and entered a narrower steep valley. We were supposed to follow Ifidi valley according to planned itinerary. I was a little bit concerned that the appearance of this valley did not match the descriptions in Bristow’s Hiking Guide as well as in Vertical Endevour and it certainly didn’t agree with the map. However, I assumed that the guide knows the area well so there was no reason to worry. By now we were following faint paths, heavily overgrown by long grass. Navigation has become difficult. After hiking for another 4 hours and covering almost 15 km from the start we decided to pitch up tents at 17:00. We have found level ground at an elevation of 1900m on the grassy bank of the river which seemed suitable for overnight stop. Everyone was tired, so after a quick supper we retreated to our tents for an early night.
Day 2 – 28/04/2017
The dawn has greeted us with a spectacular sunrise, the escarpment cliffs reflecting orange and bright red colours contrasting with still dark and gloomy valley floor. I had restless and uncomfortable night in a small tent, but I was happy that I could witness this spectacle in such a remote and isolated place that only a handful of brave souls can experience. Soon we were on our way full of hope that with an extra effort we can get to the top of escarpment late in the afternoon. Initially we walked on the northern bank of the river where we have found a weak trail winding through thick vegetation and rocky terrain. Eventually the path came to an end and we found ourselves bundu bashing along hellishly steep grassy slopes with some severe exposure due to vertical cliffs below. The progress was extremely slow and it was physically and mentally exhausting task as on a number of occasions we had to retrace our steps and find the passage through thick bushes.
Finally, unable to continue further we decided to go down into the river. It was not an easy undertaking, but eventually we found a steep, rocky and slippery gully which we managed to negotiate carefully right down to the stream below. Luckily nobody was injured apart from a few minor scratches and some torn clothes. I became really concerned that we might be lost or in a wrong area. After loading GPS coordinates and comparing them with our position on a map, it became evident that we were following not Ifidi, but Icidi Valley which is even longer and rougher route and has the reputation of being one of the three most difficult non-technical passes in the entire Berg!. Even the guide was confused and it became obvious that he has never been here and thus couldn’t recognise the area. At that stage it was too late to go back, so we have decided to continue upwards along this route regardless of the difficulty. It would also mean that our hike will stretch from four to five days, but everyone has accepted it as part of experience.
Now we carried on along a boulder hopping section with several waterfalls, which had to be bypassed, often scrambling on narrow ledges above the stream. After a few hours of this laborious task, the valley has narrowed to a small canyon with vertical walls and it became impossible to follow it any further upstream. Luckily we managed to find a very steep route on the northern side of the river which led to the relatively flat grassy area further on. Because it was close to 16:00 we decided to stop here for the night as further on it would be impossible to pitch our tents due to steep and uneven ground. We only managed to cover today approximately 3.5 km, however, my altimeter had indicated an elevation of 2400m which was encouraging. Shortly afterwards Jan and Vusi had scouted the area upstream and after an hour came back with the news that it would be possible to proceed further, although initially would be very rough in places. Soon after, it became dark and it was time to get a well-deserved rest. For me it was another uncomfortable night in a tiny tent which I was sharing with Vusi.
Fig 3 Sunrise in Icidi Valley
Day 3 – 29/04/2017
Again I woke up before the sunrise expecting another tough day in the mountains. So far we have been lucky with the weather; it’s been mild, sunny and clear with a slight breeze, ideal conditions for hiking. It seemed that the good weather would hold for another day or two. We set off as early as possible after briefly discussing our route. Initially we started walking along the right hand bank where we had followed a poorly defined trail. After a few hundred meters of steady progress we started boulder hopping again until the boulders became house-size which necessitated tricky scrambles and the detours around the unwelcome obstacles. Finally at 2500m we had reached the base of proper Icidi Pass, which initially started as a rocky gully with treacherous scree and forced us to undertake a short and exposed traverse on the southern side of the ravine. After approximately 1 hour of painfully slow progress we have emerged at the foot of a very steep and wide grassy gully which led to the top of escarpment. Hard work now awaited us, considering that we had to cover another 600m vertically over the average gradient of 35 to 40 degrees.
By now the mist started enveloping the valley so it was hard to see the top reaches of the pass. After the never-ending and tiring slog along this impossibly steep grassy slope finally at 12:00 we stood at the top of Icidi Pass which tops out at 3107m. After a short break and a group photo we pushed on along the escarpment edge and the elevated plateau in the southerly direction to get as close as possible to Mbundini Pass, which would be our way down and which is situated 4 km to the south.
Vusi briefly called the Cultural Centre informing the caretaker that we unintentionally changed the route and would be back one day later. The going was tough as the freezing wind has picked up again and high altitude as well as 20 kg backpack on my shoulder was certainly not helping. The escarpment plateau is particularly rugged here with a series of high ridges, buttresses and deep valleys, many of which we had to cross in order to get as close as possible to our destination.
Fig 4 Boulder hopping section in the upper reaches of Icidi River
Fig 5 Climbing up a very steep grassy gully of Icidi Pass
Crossing Stimela Ridge further to the south we reached 3200m elevation. By now the visibility was severely reduced since the thick fog from Kwazulu-Natal Midlands below has rolled in to the Lesotho escarpment plateau. Nevertheless we have made a good progress and at 15h30 decided to set up a camp in the valley, close to the small stream.
I estimated that we were within a few hundred meters from Mbundini Pass, which was impossible to see due to dense mist. While everyone started unpacking and pitching up tents I went for a walk with Vusi to view the Rat Hole Cave which is located approximately 0.5 km to the south of our camp on the side of the prominent ridge. The cave proved to be very small and unsuitable as overnight accommodation, rather an emergency shelter. Later on in a fading light, I started cooking my supper consisting of a boring menu of smash potatoes, cup a snack and tuna. The temperature was dropping fast and by the time it got completely dark, the first ice particles appeared on our tents. At this altitude of 3000m we expected a heavy frost in the morning. At 20:00 most of the mist dispersed and a beautiful night sky with thousands of stars, Milky Way and Magellanic Clouds were clearly visible. Now it was time to wrap in a warm down sleeping bag and hopefully get some blissful sleep.
Day 4 – 30/04/2017
The day has started on a very chilly note. Although the temperature dipped to -4C, the frost was widespread and the tents were completely covered by a thin layer of ice. Even the nearby stream had patches of frozen water. But it was sunny and clear. Early morning there was some disagreement about the exact location of Mbundini Pass. Vusi claimed that the pass is in a nearby small gully to the south of our camp, whereas I was certain that it was situated approximately 1 km to the north-east higher up. To solve this important dilemma we decided to investigate before leaving our campsite. Jan, Vusi and myself climbed the ridge and a small cliff to the north from where we could view a major mountain pass. It looked very impressive, but also extremely steep and terrifying from that angle. We proceeded further to the head of the pass, where we reassessed our position.
My GPS coordinates corresponded exactly with the location of the Pass on the map. Even the altitude of 3120m was spot on. I was correct, this was Mbundini Pass indeed. Our guide was obviously unfamiliar with this route and the one in a small gully that he had shown us earlier was a little known Madonna Pass which in effect was a side branch of Fangs Pass with some dangerous rock exposure. We returned to our campsite to share that information with the rest of the group and by 9:00 all of us headed back to the top of the pass.
Piercing the clouds are Mnweni needles, Mponjwane and Cathedral Peak and Bell to the south
The view from the top was impressive; the sea of clouds below and nearby buttresses, Mnweni needles and the Cathedral Range in the distance. At 10:00 we commenced our descent. Initially our progress was quite slow as the grassy gully was very steep, uneven and often interrupted by patches of dangerous scree and large boulders. From time to time we had to negotiate small side gullies, which carried streams and were thus slippery.
Lower down we continued on a steep southern side of Mbundini Valley, high up above the river. It was tiresome to walk at this precarious angle; care had to be taken not to slip and to bypass numerous rock bands. Finally we reached a prominent ridge separating Mbundini and Fangs Passes from where a fantastic view of the escarpment unveiled. From here one could admire magnificent kloofs, grand buttresses and gothic-like rock formations and spires such as Madonna and Her Worshippers.
Going down this ridge was much easier, which accelerated our progress. At 15:00 we were down at the base of the pass, near the confluence of Mbundini and Fangs streams. Here at the small waterfall we had refilled our water bottles and later continued downstream along well-established trail, crossing the river many times and following a good path along the valley. Eventually we have joined the Mnweni trail just below the Shepherd’s Cave, from where we still continued for another 2.5 km. Soon it started to get dark and at 18:00 we finally stopped on a grassy bank of Mnweni River, which was a lovely spot to spend a final night in this beautiful area. After a quick supper, following everyone I ducked inside the tent to get some well-deserved rest.
Day 5 – 1/05/2017
I had to motivate myself to come out of my sleeping bag this morning because the hardships of the last few days took their toll on my aching body. Nevertheless by 8:00, I was on the move and followed my companions along the broad Mnweni Valley. Soon we passed a number of human settlements, clinging to the gentle slopes of the valley.
Our progress was rapid in spite of 12km that we had to cover today. Final part of the hike involved monotonous stretch of the road along which I have noticed large fields covered with blossoming Cosmos flowers.
Finally at 11h00 we were back at Mnweni Cultural Village. Our adventure was over but we were happy to complete this difficult trail covering a total of nearly 50km in one of the most scenic corners of the Berg. This will only encourage me to plan my next Drakensberg epic in the nearest future.
by: Tomasz Paszkowski
